Niacinamide is one of the most researched and versatile skincare ingredients available today. A 12-week randomized controlled trial published in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% topical niacinamide significantly reduced hyperpigmentation and improved skin lightness compared to a vehicle control. From oil control to barrier repair, this form of vitamin B3 has earned its place in nearly every skincare routine.
Quick Summary:
- Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces sebum production, and fades dark spots
- Clinical research supports concentrations between 2% and 5% for most skin benefits, with 10% formulas targeting stubborn oiliness and enlarged pores
- It pairs well with most other active ingredients, including retinol, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C
- Results typically appear within 8 to 12 weeks of consistent daily use
- Niacinamide works for all skin types, making it one of the safest and most universally recommended actives
What Is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is one of two active forms of vitamin B3 (the other being nicotinic acid). Unlike nicotinic acid, niacinamide does not cause flushing or redness, which makes it ideal for topical skincare application.
Your body needs vitamin B3 to produce nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), a coenzyme involved in over 400 enzymatic reactions in cells. When applied topically, niacinamide acts as a precursor to NAD+ in skin cells, supporting energy production, DNA repair, and cellular communication. This is why it influences so many different skin functions at once — it is working at a foundational cellular level.
You will find niacinamide in serums, moisturizers, toners, and even sunscreens. It is stable, well-tolerated, and compatible with most other skincare ingredients, which explains why it has become a staple in both budget and premium formulations.
How Niacinamide Works on Skin
Niacinamide affects the skin through several distinct biological pathways, which is why it addresses such a wide range of concerns.
Barrier Strengthening and Ceramide Production
A study published in Experimental Dermatology demonstrated that topical niacinamide increases the synthesis of ceramides and other intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. Ceramides are the "mortar" between your skin cells, and stronger ceramide levels mean better moisture retention and a more resilient barrier. If you are dealing with dryness, irritation, or sensitivity, this barrier-boosting action is a major benefit. For more on how these lipids protect your skin, see our guide to hyaluronic acid and how hydration works.
Sebum Regulation
A 12-week study in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy found that 2% topical niacinamide significantly reduced the sebum excretion rate in Japanese subjects with oily skin. The reduction in oil production also led to visible improvements in pore appearance. This makes niacinamide a go-to active for anyone with oily or combination skin — check out our oily skin guide for a full routine built around oil control.
Hyperpigmentation and Brightening
Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (pigment-carrying structures) from melanocytes to keratinocytes. It does not stop melanin production entirely — instead, it slows the delivery of pigment to the skin's surface. Research in the British Journal of Dermatology showed that 5% niacinamide significantly reduced hyperpigmentation in subjects over 8 weeks compared to vehicle alone. If dark spots or uneven tone are your primary concern, our hyperpigmentation guide covers how niacinamide fits into a complete brightening routine.
Anti-Inflammatory Effects
Niacinamide suppresses the nuclear factor-kB (NF-kB) pathway, a key driver of skin inflammation. This anti-inflammatory action helps calm redness, reduce the severity of inflammatory acne lesions, and soothe reactive skin. A study in the International Journal of Dermatology compared 4% niacinamide gel to 1% clindamycin gel for acne and found comparable results in reducing inflammatory lesion counts after 8 weeks. For a deeper look at tackling breakouts, read our acne treatment guide.
Fine Lines and Wrinkles
By boosting collagen synthesis and improving epidermal turnover, niacinamide has anti-aging benefits as well. A vehicle-controlled study published in Dermatologic Surgery found that 5% niacinamide applied for 12 weeks reduced fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and red blotchiness while improving skin elasticity.
Verdict: Niacinamide is one of the few ingredients backed by strong clinical evidence across multiple skin concerns — oil control, barrier repair, brightening, acne, and aging. A concentration of 2% to 5% is the sweet spot for most people, making it safe enough for sensitive skin yet effective enough for visible results within 8 to 12 weeks.
Choosing the Right Niacinamide Concentration
Not all niacinamide products are the same, and higher percentages are not automatically better.
2% niacinamide: The threshold where clinical benefits begin. This concentration appears in many moisturizers and is well-suited for sensitive skin or as part of a multi-ingredient formula.
4% to 5% niacinamide: The range with the strongest clinical support. Most of the landmark studies showing improvements in sebum control, pigmentation, wrinkles, and barrier function used concentrations in this range.
10% niacinamide: Higher-strength serums target stubborn oiliness and enlarged pores. Some users experience mild irritation, tingling, or redness at this concentration. If you are new to niacinamide, start at 5% or lower and work up.
Product Recommendations
Here are proven niacinamide products across different price points and formats.
Best Budget Serum: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (around $6) is one of the most popular niacinamide serums on the market. The zinc PCA helps with oil control, making this a strong pick for oily and acne-prone skin. The 10% concentration is potent, so patch test first if you have sensitive skin.
Best Budget Alternative: Good Molecules Niacinamide Serum (around $6) offers a straightforward 10% niacinamide formula with a lightweight texture that layers well under moisturizer.
Best Moisturizer with Niacinamide: CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion (around $16) combines 4% niacinamide with ceramides and hyaluronic acid. This is an excellent choice if you want niacinamide benefits built into your moisturizer rather than adding a separate serum step.
Best for Sensitive Skin: La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer (around $20) contains niacinamide alongside ceramide-3 and glycerin in a formula designed for reactive and compromised skin. It is fragrance-free and has a clean safety profile.
Best Targeted Booster: Paula's Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster (around $44) is a concentrated treatment you can mix into your existing serum or moisturizer. It also contains acetyl glucosamine, which works synergistically with niacinamide to brighten skin tone.
How to Add Niacinamide to Your Routine
Niacinamide is flexible. You can apply it morning, night, or both.
Step 1: Cleanse. Use a gentle cleanser to start with clean skin.
Step 2: Apply niacinamide serum. If using a standalone serum, apply it to damp skin after cleansing (and after toner, if you use one). Pat a few drops across your face and let it absorb for 30 to 60 seconds.
Step 3: Layer your other actives. Niacinamide plays well with vitamin C, retinol, and hyaluronic acid. Despite an old myth that niacinamide and vitamin C cancel each other out, modern formulations are stable at skin-compatible pH levels, and the two ingredients can be layered safely.
Step 4: Moisturize. Follow with your moisturizer. If your moisturizer already contains niacinamide (like CeraVe PM), you can skip the separate serum step entirely.
Step 5: Sunscreen (morning only). Always finish your morning routine with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
Common Mistakes with Niacinamide
Using too high a concentration too fast. Jumping straight to 10% niacinamide can cause redness, tingling, or breakouts in some people. Start at 4% to 5% and increase only if your skin tolerates it well.
Expecting overnight results. Niacinamide works gradually. Sebum reduction shows within 2 to 4 weeks, but brightening and anti-aging effects need a full 8 to 12 weeks.
Layering too many actives at once. Niacinamide is compatible with most ingredients, but stacking it with multiple exfoliating acids in one routine can overwhelm your skin. Keep it simple: niacinamide pairs best with hydrating and moisturizing ingredients in the same session.
Ignoring the rest of your routine. Niacinamide is not a replacement for sunscreen, retinol, or a solid cleanser. It works best as one piece of a well-structured routine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use niacinamide every day?
Yes. Niacinamide is gentle enough for twice-daily use in most people. Unlike exfoliating acids or retinoids, it does not increase sun sensitivity or cause significant irritation at standard concentrations (2% to 5%).
Does niacinamide help with acne?
It does. Niacinamide reduces sebum production, calms inflammation, and has been shown to perform comparably to 1% topical clindamycin for inflammatory acne. It is not a replacement for benzoyl peroxide or prescription treatments in severe cases, but it is an effective supporting ingredient for mild to moderate breakouts.
Can I use niacinamide with retinol?
Absolutely. Niacinamide and retinol complement each other well. Niacinamide helps buffer the irritation that retinol can cause by strengthening the skin barrier, while retinol handles deeper anti-aging and acne-clearing work. Apply niacinamide first, let it absorb, then follow with retinol.
Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C?
Yes. The old claim that niacinamide and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) react to form nicotinic acid was based on chemistry experiments at extreme temperatures — not real-world skincare conditions. Modern formulations are safe to layer. If you notice any flushing, apply them at different times of day.
What percentage of niacinamide is most effective?
Clinical studies show meaningful benefits starting at 2%, with 4% to 5% being the most well-supported range. Higher concentrations like 10% can be effective for oiliness and pores but may cause irritation in sensitive individuals.
How long does niacinamide take to work?
Expect to see oil-control improvements within 2 to 4 weeks. Brightening, texture improvement, and dark spot fading typically become noticeable at the 8 to 12 week mark with consistent daily application.
Is niacinamide safe for sensitive skin?
Niacinamide is one of the safest actives for sensitive skin. At concentrations of 4% to 5%, it rarely causes irritation. Its anti-inflammatory properties and barrier-strengthening effects actually help calm and protect reactive skin.
Does niacinamide shrink pores?
Niacinamide does not physically shrink pore size, which is determined by genetics. However, by reducing sebum production and improving skin elasticity, it makes pores appear visibly smaller. The effect is cosmetic but real and well-documented in clinical research.
Should I use niacinamide in the morning or at night?
Either works, and both is fine too. Many people prefer a niacinamide serum in the morning (it layers well under sunscreen) and a niacinamide-containing moisturizer at night. There is no wrong time to apply it.
Can niacinamide cause purging?
Niacinamide does not cause purging in the traditional sense because it does not increase cell turnover the way retinoids or chemical exfoliants do. If you experience breakouts after starting niacinamide, it may be a reaction to the product formulation, the concentration being too high, or other ingredients in the product.
Who should avoid niacinamide?
Very few people need to avoid niacinamide. In rare cases, individuals may have a sensitivity that causes persistent redness or irritation. If this happens, discontinue use and try a lower concentration or a different formulation. For the vast majority of skin types and concerns, niacinamide is safe and beneficial.
The Bottom Line
Niacinamide is a proven, well-tolerated ingredient that addresses oil control, barrier health, hyperpigmentation, acne, and early signs of aging. Start with a 4% to 5% product, apply it consistently for at least 8 weeks, and pair it with sunscreen. For most people, it is one of the smartest additions you can make to any skincare routine.
Sources:
- Hakozaki T, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology. 2002;147(1):20-31. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/
- Draelos ZD, et al. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis. 2005;76(2):135-141. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16209160/
- Bissett DL, et al. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-865. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16029679/
- Shalita AR, et al. Topical nicotinamide compared with clindamycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. International Journal of Dermatology. 1995;34(6):434-437. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7657446/
- Tanno O, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000;143(3):524-531. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10971324/