Concerns

Dark Circles Under Eyes: Causes, Treatments, and What Actually Works

Learn what causes dark under-eye circles, which treatments actually work based on research, and how to reduce their appearance with the right skincare routine.

Dark Circles Under Eyes: Causes, Treatments, and What Actually Works

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2016) by Vrcek et al. identified at least four distinct mechanisms behind dark under-eye circles, explaining why a single product rarely fixes the problem — and why treatment requires identifying your specific cause first. Dark circles are one of the most common cosmetic complaints across all ages and skin tones, yet they remain one of the most poorly treated because most people assume they're caused by fatigue alone. The reality is far more complex.

Quick Summary:

  • Dark circles have four primary causes: thin skin showing blood vessels, hyperpigmentation, volume loss (hollowing), and lifestyle factors — most people have a combination
  • Treatment depends entirely on the cause — vitamin C and retinol help pigmentation, caffeine helps vascular circles, and fillers address volume loss
  • The under-eye area has the thinnest skin on the body (0.5mm vs 2mm elsewhere), making it more vulnerable to visible discoloration
  • Sunscreen and sun protection are critical for preventing pigmentary dark circles from worsening
  • No topical product completely eliminates dark circles, but the right combination can reduce them by 30-50% over consistent use

What Causes Dark Circles?

Dark circles are not a single condition — they're a visible symptom with multiple possible causes. Identifying which type you have determines which treatment will work.

Type 1: Vascular (blue-purple circles). The skin under your eyes is roughly 0.5mm thick — the thinnest anywhere on your body. This thinness makes the network of blood vessels beneath visible, creating a blue, purple, or dark reddish tint. Vascular circles are more prominent in people with fair or thin skin, worsen with fatigue (blood pools when circulation slows), and look worse when you're dehydrated or haven't slept.

Type 2: Pigmentary (brown circles). Excess melanin production in the periorbital (under-eye) area creates brown or dark brown discoloration. This type is more common in darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick types III-VI) and is often hereditary. Sun exposure, chronic rubbing (allergies, eczema), and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from dermatitis all contribute. A study in the Indian Journal of Dermatology (2014) found that periorbital hyperpigmentation affected up to 47% of the study population, with genetic predisposition as the strongest risk factor.

Type 3: Structural (shadow-based circles). As you age, you lose fat and collagen in the under-eye area. This creates a hollow (the tear trough) that casts a shadow, making the area appear dark even when there's no pigment or vascular issue. Structural circles become more prominent after age 30 and progressively worsen. They're most noticeable in overhead or harsh lighting.

Type 4: Lifestyle-related. Sleep deprivation, dehydration, excessive alcohol consumption, smoking, and high sodium intake all temporarily worsen dark circles by increasing fluid retention, slowing blood circulation, and dilating blood vessels. These are the easiest to address but are rarely the sole cause.

Most people have a combination of two or more types, which is why dark circles are so difficult to treat with a single approach.

How to Identify Your Type

The stretch test. Gently pull the skin under your eye taut. If the dark color fades, you likely have structural/shadow-based circles (stretching the skin eliminates the hollow that casts the shadow). If the color remains, it's pigmentary or vascular.

Color assessment. Blue or purple tones suggest vascular circles. Brown or dark brown suggests pigmentation. A combination of both is common, especially in deeper skin tones where pigmentation overlays vascular visibility.

The light test. Look at your circles in natural daylight versus overhead artificial light. If they're significantly worse under overhead lighting, shadows from volume loss are a major contributor.

Age and family history. Dark circles that appeared in childhood or teens are likely genetic (pigmentary or vascular). Those that developed in your thirties or later likely have a structural component from age-related volume loss.

Hydrogel under-eye patches

Treatments That Work

For Vascular Dark Circles (Blue-Purple)

Caffeine. Topical caffeine constricts blood vessels and reduces fluid accumulation under the eyes. A study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2015) showed that caffeine-containing eye creams reduced the appearance of under-eye darkness after four weeks of consistent use. Apply a caffeine-containing eye cream in the morning when puffiness and vascular pooling are worst.

Vitamin K. Some evidence suggests topical vitamin K (phytonadione) strengthens capillary walls and reduces blood leakage under the thin periorbital skin. The research is limited but promising, and vitamin K is often combined with caffeine and retinol in eye-specific formulas.

Cold compresses. Temporary but effective — cold constricts blood vessels immediately, reducing the blue-purple appearance for several hours. A chilled spoon, cold tea bags (the tannins also constrict vessels), or a dedicated cold eye mask all work. CeraVe Eye Repair Cream (around $15) combines ceramides with niacinamide in a lightweight formula that hydrates the thin under-eye skin while strengthening the barrier.

Sleep and hydration. These won't cure vascular circles but will reduce their severity. Sleep deprivation causes blood to pool under the eyes; dehydration thins the skin further and makes vessels more visible. Seven to nine hours of sleep and adequate water intake are baseline requirements.

For Pigmentary Dark Circles (Brown)

Vitamin C. A potent antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase (the enzyme driving melanin production) and brightens existing pigmentation. La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum (around $40) uses a stable 10% pure vitamin C formula that's gentle enough for the periorbital area. Apply under the eye using your ring finger (lightest touch) in the morning.

Retinol. Accelerates cell turnover to shed pigmented cells faster and stimulates collagen production that thickens the under-eye skin. Use a low concentration (0.025-0.05%) formulated specifically for the eye area. See our retinol guide for proper usage. Start once per week and increase gradually — the under-eye area is significantly more sensitive than the rest of your face.

Niacinamide. Inhibits melanosome transfer (the process by which melanin moves from melanocytes into surrounding skin cells) and strengthens the skin barrier. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (around $6) can be gently patted under the eyes. Niacinamide is well-tolerated by most people, even in the delicate eye area.

Sunscreen. UV exposure is the single biggest driver of pigmentary dark circles. Without consistent sun protection, every other treatment is undermined. Apply sunscreen to the under-eye area daily and wear UV-protective sunglasses outdoors.

For Structural Dark Circles (Volume Loss)

Retinol. Long-term retinol use thickens the dermis by stimulating collagen production, which can partially fill in the hollow and reduce shadow-casting. This is a slow process — expect six to twelve months of consistent use for visible structural improvement.

Hyaluronic acid fillers. For significant volume loss, injectable hyaluronic acid fillers (administered by a dermatologist or trained injector) fill the tear trough directly. Results are immediate and last 9-18 months. This is the only treatment that dramatically improves structural dark circles in a single session. Topical products cannot replicate this effect.

Peptide eye creams. Peptides signal collagen production and can modestly improve skin thickness over time. They won't replace lost volume but can reduce the severity of shallow hollowing. Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Eye Cream (around $22) combines retinol with a peptide complex to build collagen in the under-eye area gradually.

Verdict: There is no single miracle product for dark circles because they have multiple causes. Identify your type first, then target it: caffeine for vascular, vitamin C and niacinamide for pigmentary, retinol for structural. Sunscreen prevents all types from worsening. Set realistic expectations — topical products improve dark circles, but rarely eliminate them completely.

Building an Under-Eye Routine

Morning:

  1. Apply a caffeine-containing eye cream or gel to reduce puffiness and vascular pooling
  2. Layer a vitamin C serum for brightening (or use a combination product)
  3. Apply sunscreen to the under-eye area — this prevents pigmentary circles from worsening
  4. If using makeup, a peach or orange color corrector neutralizes blue-purple tones; yellow corrects brown tones

Evening:

  1. Gentle cleanser — avoid rubbing the eye area; use fingertips or a soft cloth
  2. Retinol eye cream (start once per week, increase to every other night as tolerated)
  3. Moisturizer or a hydrating eye cream with hyaluronic acid and ceramides

Key principle: The under-eye area is extremely thin and sensitive. Use your ring finger to apply products (it applies the least pressure), pat gently rather than rubbing, and introduce actives more slowly than you would on the rest of your face.

Dark circle treatment products

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using the same products as the rest of your face. Full-strength retinol, vitamin C at 20%, and AHA exfoliants are too aggressive for the periorbital area. Use lower concentrations or products specifically formulated for the eye area.

Rubbing your eyes. Chronic rubbing from allergies, contact lens insertion, or habit causes friction-induced hyperpigmentation and accelerates collagen breakdown. Treat allergies with antihistamines rather than rubbing, and be gentle when removing makeup.

Expecting overnight results. Pigmentary dark circles need eight to twelve weeks of consistent treatment to lighten. Structural improvements from retinol take six to twelve months. Vascular circles respond fastest to caffeine (two to four weeks), but the effect requires ongoing use.

Ignoring sun protection. Every minute of UV exposure without protection worsens pigmentary circles and degrades the collagen that maintains under-eye thickness. Sunglasses and SPF are non-negotiable, even on cloudy days.

Spending on miracle eye creams. Many expensive "dark circle solutions" contain the same ingredients as a $6 niacinamide serum and a $20 vitamin C product. Target the cause with proven ingredients rather than paying premium prices for vague claims.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are dark circles genetic?

In many cases, yes. Periorbital hyperpigmentation has a strong hereditary component, especially in people with darker skin tones. Thin skin and prominent under-eye blood vessels are also inherited traits. If your parents or siblings have dark circles, genetics is likely a contributing factor. Genetic dark circles can be managed but are harder to eliminate than lifestyle-related ones.

Do dark circles mean you're unhealthy?

Not necessarily. While dark circles can indicate poor sleep, dehydration, or nutritional deficiencies (especially iron and B12), they're most commonly caused by genetics, skin structure, and normal aging. Persistent dark circles in someone who sleeps well and is otherwise healthy usually indicate a structural or pigmentary cause rather than a health problem.

Can allergies cause dark circles?

Yes — "allergic shiners" are a well-documented phenomenon. Nasal congestion from allergies restricts blood flow from the periorbital veins, causing blood to pool and the area to darken. Chronic eye rubbing from itchy eyes also causes friction-related hyperpigmentation. Treating the underlying allergy (antihistamines, nasal corticosteroids) often significantly reduces these dark circles.

Do eye creams actually work?

They can, but only if they contain active ingredients that target your specific type of dark circles. A basic moisturizer labeled as "eye cream" with no actives won't reduce dark circles. Products containing caffeine (for vascular), vitamin C or niacinamide (for pigmentary), or retinol (for structural) have clinical evidence supporting modest improvement. The key word is "modest" — topical products improve but don't eliminate dark circles.

Does sleep fix dark circles?

Adequate sleep (seven to nine hours) improves vascular dark circles by reducing blood pooling and fluid retention. However, if your dark circles are caused by pigmentation, volume loss, or genetics, better sleep won't change them. Sleep helps but is rarely a complete solution.

Can you use retinol under your eyes?

Yes, but use a low concentration (0.025-0.05%) and introduce it very slowly — once per week for the first month, then gradually increase. The under-eye skin is thin and sensitive, so full-strength retinol causes excessive irritation, peeling, and dryness. Always buffer with a hydrating eye cream applied before and after.

What's the best concealer technique for dark circles?

Color correction is more effective than layering heavy concealer. For blue-purple circles, use a peach or orange corrector. For brown circles, use a yellow corrector. Apply a thin layer of corrector first, let it set, then apply a matching-shade concealer on top. Set with a light dusting of translucent powder to prevent creasing.

Do tea bags or cucumber slices work?

Temporarily. Cold tea bags constrict blood vessels (the cold) and provide tannins (which have mild astringent properties). Cucumber slices are cold and hydrating. Both reduce puffiness and mildly improve vascular dark circles for a few hours. They don't treat pigmentation or volume loss.

At what age do dark circles typically appear?

Vascular and pigmentary dark circles can appear as early as childhood, especially in people with genetic predisposition. Structural dark circles from volume loss typically begin in the late twenties to thirties and progressively worsen. Most people notice their dark circles becoming more prominent in their mid-thirties as collagen loss accelerates.

Can dark circles be permanently removed?

Topical treatments manage and reduce dark circles but don't permanently eliminate them. For pigmentary circles, consistent treatment can maintain significant improvement. For structural circles, dermal fillers provide the most dramatic improvement but require repeat treatments. Laser treatments and chemical peels can address pigmentation more aggressively than topical products. Consult a dermatologist for persistent dark circles that don't respond to at-home care.

Does vitamin K cream work for dark circles?

Limited evidence suggests topical vitamin K (often combined with retinol and caffeine) can improve vascular dark circles by strengthening capillary walls. A small study showed improvement in under-eye darkness after eight weeks of use. However, the evidence base is smaller than for caffeine, vitamin C, or niacinamide. Vitamin K is worth trying as part of a combination approach but shouldn't be your only treatment.

The Bottom Line

Dark circles are caused by thin skin, pigmentation, volume loss, or a combination of all three — not just lack of sleep. Identify your type using the stretch and color tests, then target it with the right ingredients: caffeine for vascular, vitamin C and niacinamide for pigmentary, retinol for structural. Wear sunscreen and sunglasses daily. Be patient — improvement takes weeks to months — and set realistic expectations. Topical products can meaningfully reduce dark circles, even if they can't completely erase them.

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