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Face Oils Guide: Which Oils Actually Benefit Your Skin

Face oils lock in moisture but cannot replace moisturizer. Squalane boosts hydration by 40% while linoleic acid reduces comedones by 25%. Learn which to use.

Face Oils Guide: Which Oils Actually Benefit Your Skin

A 2018 review in Molecules found that topical squalane increased skin moisture by up to 40% while reducing transepidermal water loss, with hydration benefits lasting 12 hours after a single application. Meanwhile, a double-blind study in Clinical and Experimental Dermatology showed that topically applied linoleic acid achieved a 25% reduction in microcomedone size over one month. Face oils offer real benefits — but understanding which oil does what prevents expensive mistakes.

Quick Summary:

  • Face oils function primarily as occlusives, sealing in moisture rather than adding water to the skin
  • Oils cannot replace moisturizer because they lack humectants that attract and hold water
  • Linoleic acid-rich oils (rosehip, jojoba) suit acne-prone skin; oleic acid-rich oils (olive, coconut) can clog pores
  • Squalane is the most universally tolerated face oil with clinical evidence for hydration and UV protection
  • Apply face oils as the last step over moisturizer to seal in your entire routine

How Face Oils Work on Skin

Face oils serve one primary function: occlusion. They create a thin lipid barrier on the skin's surface that slows the evaporation of water from deeper layers. A 2017 review in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences confirmed that plant oils promote skin barrier homeostasis through multiple mechanisms — antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory effects, and direct barrier repair.

A separate 2022 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that most vegetable oils showed occlusive performance comparable to petrolatum over a six-hour test period. This means face oils can meaningfully reduce water loss, though not as dramatically as petroleum jelly.

What oils do:

  • Seal in moisture from humectants and moisturizers applied underneath
  • Provide emollient properties that soften and smooth the skin surface
  • Deliver antioxidants (vitamin E, polyphenols) depending on the oil
  • Support the skin's lipid barrier

What oils don't do:

  • Add water to the skin (they're anhydrous — they contain no water)
  • Replace the humectant and emollient functions of a complete moisturizer
  • Penetrate deeply enough to treat acne, wrinkles, or pigmentation like active ingredients can

The Fatty Acid Factor

The single most important consideration when choosing a face oil is its fatty acid profile — specifically the ratio of linoleic acid to oleic acid.

Linoleic acid (omega-6): Lighter, thinner, non-comedogenic. Research in Mediators of Inflammation found that acne-prone skin has decreased linoleic acid and increased oleic acid in sebum. Supplementing with linoleic acid-rich oils can help normalize this imbalance. Oils high in linoleic acid suit oily and acne-prone skin.

Oleic acid (omega-9): Heavier, more occlusive, potentially comedogenic. Oleic acid is denser and more likely to cause follicular blockage in pore-prone skin. Oils high in oleic acid work better for dry skin that needs intense occlusion.

Oil Primary Fatty Acid Best For
Rosehip Linoleic acid Acne-prone, aging skin
Jojoba Wax esters (mimics sebum) All skin types
Squalane Hydrocarbon (non-fatty acid) All skin types
Argan Oleic + linoleic (balanced) Normal to dry skin
Coconut Lauric acid (saturated) Body only — comedogenic on face
Olive Oleic acid Dry skin only

Golden facial oil drops on ceramic

Best Face Oils by Skin Type

Squalane — Best for All Skin Types

Squalane is a hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid naturally produced by human skin. A 2025 study in Molecules demonstrated that squalane counteracted UVA-induced oxidative stress, protected collagen biosynthesis, and showed anti-inflammatory activity.

The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane (around $8) is lightweight, odorless, and absorbs quickly without greasiness. It's the safest face oil recommendation for anyone unsure where to start.

Rosehip Oil — Best for Aging and Acne-Prone Skin

A 2024 pilot study in Cosmetics tested rosehip oil on 27 volunteers aged 30-65 and found significant reduction in wrinkle scores after five weeks of daily use. Rosehip oil is rich in linoleic acid, vitamin A (retinoids), and carotenoids — making it one of the few oils with both occlusive and active treatment properties.

Best for: Anti-aging, post-inflammatory marks, acne-prone skin. The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil (around $10) provides pure rosehip oil at an affordable price.

Jojoba Oil — Best for Oily Skin

A comprehensive 2021 review in Polymers confirmed that jojoba oil is technically a liquid wax, not an oil. Its wax ester composition mimics the wax esters that make up approximately 25% of human sebum. This similarity may help regulate oil production in oily skin.

Best for: Oily skin, oil cleansing, as a lightweight sealant.

Argan Oil — Best for Dry Skin

A clinical study published in Clinical Interventions in Aging found that both dietary and topical argan oil improved skin elasticity in postmenopausal women after 60 days. Argan oil contains a balanced ratio of oleic and linoleic acids plus high vitamin E content.

Best for: Dry skin, mature skin, improving elasticity. Josie Maran 100% Pure Argan Oil (around $18) is a popular pure argan oil option.

Verdict: Squalane is the safest starting point for any skin type. Rosehip oil offers additional anti-aging benefits for those who tolerate it. Avoid coconut oil and olive oil on acne-prone facial skin — their fatty acid profiles promote comedone formation regardless of what social media claims.

How to Use Face Oils

Step 1: Complete your full routine first — cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer.

Step 2: Apply two to three drops of oil to your palms, warm between your fingertips, and gently press into your skin. Pat, don't rub.

Step 3: Let it absorb for one to two minutes before lying on your pillow or applying sunscreen.

Layering order: Cleanser → Toner → Serum → Moisturizer → Face oil (last step)

Face oils go last because they're occlusive — anything applied over oil won't penetrate as effectively. The exception is sunscreen in the morning, which should always be the final step. If your face oil prevents sunscreen from adhering properly, skip the oil in your morning routine and use it only at night.

Popular face oil options

Oils to Avoid on Your Face

Coconut oil: Despite its popularity, coconut oil has a comedogenicity rating of 4 out of 5. Its high lauric acid content clogs pores in most facial skin. Use it on your body, not your face.

Olive oil: High in oleic acid and moderately comedogenic. A 2017 review noted that olive oil can impair barrier function in some individuals, particularly those with compromised skin barriers.

Essential oils (undiluted): Tea tree, lavender, and eucalyptus oils are potent irritants at full concentration. If using essential oils, they must be diluted in a carrier oil at 1-2% concentration maximum. Most facial concerns are better addressed by proven actives like retinol or niacinamide.

Fragrant plant oils: Rose otto, jasmine, and ylang ylang oils are primarily fragrance ingredients. They add scent but not meaningful skin benefits, and fragrance is a leading cause of contact dermatitis.

Oil Cleansing

Oil cleansing — using a face oil as the first step of a double cleanse — has genuine clinical support. A 2019 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that oil-based cleansers were necessary for effective removal of waterproof sunscreen, while regular cleansers couldn't fully dissolve it.

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil (around $15) is a well-formulated cleansing oil that emulsifies with water for easy rinsing. Apply to dry skin, massage for 30-60 seconds to dissolve sunscreen and makeup, add water to emulsify, then rinse and follow with your regular cleanser.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can face oil replace moisturizer?

No. Moisturizers contain humectants (ingredients that attract water) plus emollients and occlusives. Oils provide only occlusion. Using oil alone over bare skin seals in whatever moisture is present but doesn't add any. Always apply moisturizer first, oil second.

Will face oil make my skin oilier?

Not if you choose the right one. Lightweight, linoleic acid-rich oils like squalane and jojoba don't increase oiliness. Heavy, oleic acid-rich oils can contribute to congestion in oily skin. Start with two to three drops of squalane and see how your skin responds.

Can I use face oil if I have acne?

Yes — choose linoleic acid-dominant oils. Research shows acne-prone skin is deficient in linoleic acid, and supplementing with it can reduce comedone size. Rosehip and jojoba are safe choices. Avoid coconut, olive, and cocoa butter.

Should I use face oil in the morning or at night?

Night is generally better. Face oils can interfere with sunscreen application and create shine under makeup. If you want to use oil in the morning, apply one drop mixed into your moisturizer rather than layering it on top.

What's the difference between a face oil and a serum?

Serums are water-based formulations with concentrated active ingredients (retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide) that penetrate the skin. Face oils are lipid-based products that sit on the surface as occlusives. They serve different functions and layer in a specific order: serum first, oil last.

How long does face oil take to absorb?

Lightweight oils (squalane, jojoba) absorb within one to two minutes. Heavier oils (argan, rosehip) take three to five minutes. If your oil still feels greasy after five minutes, you used too much — two to three drops is sufficient for the full face.

Can I mix face oil with my moisturizer?

Yes. Mixing two to three drops of oil into your moisturizer in your palm before applying is a practical way to boost occlusion without adding a separate step. This works especially well in winter months when skin needs extra protection.

Are expensive face oils worth it?

Often no. The active component in most face oils is the base oil itself — squalane, rosehip, jojoba. Premium brands charge for elegant packaging and added botanicals that provide minimal additional benefit. The Ordinary and similar brands offer pure, high-quality oils at a fraction of the cost.

Does rosehip oil help with scars?

Rosehip oil's vitamin A content and linoleic acid may help improve the appearance of post-inflammatory marks and mild scarring over months of consistent use. It won't erase deep scars, but it can improve skin texture and tone in the affected area.

Can pregnant women use face oils?

Most pure plant oils (squalane, jojoba, argan) are safe during pregnancy. Avoid rosehip oil due to its retinoid content, and avoid essential oils unless cleared by your healthcare provider. Simple, single-ingredient oils are the safest choice.

How should I store face oils?

Store in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight. Many face oils (especially rosehip) oxidize when exposed to light and heat, losing their beneficial properties. Refrigeration extends shelf life. Discard any oil that smells rancid — oxidized oils can irritate the skin.

The Bottom Line

Face oils seal in moisture and support the skin barrier when used correctly — as the last step over moisturizer. Choose oils based on your skin type: squalane for everyone, rosehip for aging concerns, jojoba for oily skin. Avoid coconut and olive oil on acne-prone faces, and remember that oils complement but don't replace a complete moisturizer.

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